Transmission Guide
Click Here for a .pdf Version of Transmission Guide

Preventive Maintenance is one of the keys to keeping your transmission running its best. Let our experienced technician’s inspect, repair, and maintain your transmission and 9-inch third members so you will always be ready to race!

We can service single units, or schedule a regular service agreement contract for all of you teams weekly requirements to keep power-train parts ready without downtime. Transmission and 9-inch third member rentals are also available.

Our Refresh Service Includes:
* Disassembly
* Cleaning
* Magnaflux all components
* Inspection and Reassembly by our factory trained and certified technicians.

Factory Refresh Service for:
* 2 Speed Oval or Dirt Track Transmissions
* 3 Speed Oval or Dirt Track Transmissions
* 4 Speed Oval, Dirt Track or Road Race Transmissions
* 4 Speed Drag Race Transmissions
* 5 Speed Drag Race Transmissions
* 5 Speed Road Race Transmissions Shifter Rebuild Services
* Air-Shifted Rebuild Services
* 9-inch Third Member Refresh Services
* Quick Change Rear Ends

After a complete inspection, we will call you with an estimate if any of the parts should be replaced in order to keep your Jerico racing like new. If a ratio change is required, we can do that for you too. Our Technical Support Staff can help you choose from our wide variety of gear ratios to suite your needs.

Trust all your transmission and 9-inch third member service needs to the Jerico Racing Driveline Service Center because we have the specialists, inventory, expertise, and dedication required to keep you winning. Put our power-train knowledge to work for you and your team today!

We are an Authorized Distributor for Quick Time Bell Housing, McLeod Clutches, Mark Williams Yokes, Hurst Shifters, Long Shifter and Motive Gears and many others. For additional services and parts, give us a call 704-782-4343!

DISASSEMBLY FOR OVAL & ROAD RACE TRANSMISSIONS
1. Remove top cover
2. Drain Transmission Oil by removing the drain plug
3. Remove shift rods and shifter assembly
4. Remove front bearing retainer
5. Remove tail housing
6. Remove detents and detent springs for the 1-2 shift rail
7. Remove the 1-2 shift fork lock bolt
8. Remove the 1-2 shift rail
9. Remove the detents and detent springs for the 3-4 shift rail
10. Remove the 3-4 shift fork lock bolt
11. Remove the 3-4- shift rail
12. Remove the snap ring for the front bearing
13. Remove the snap ring for the rear bearing
14. Remove the front bearing
15. Remove the rear bearing
16. Remove the main drive gear from the input shaft
17. Remove the 1-2 and 3-4 forks
18. Separate the input shaft from the output shaft (let the input shaft hang out of the front of the case)
19. Remove the main shaft out of the top of the case
20. Remove the counter shaft pin
21. Remove the cluster assembly
22. Remove the remaining detent pins
23. Remove the reverse lock bolt
24. Remove the reverse rail
25. Remove the reverse fork
26. Remove the reverse idler and slider

CLUSTER SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove Snap Rings
2. Remove Gears

MAIN SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the snap ring from the 3-4 Slider Hub
2. Remove the gears, bearings, dog rings and sliders
3. If your transmission has snap rings holding the dog rings to the gears remove snap rings (Some transmissions will not have snap rings holding the dog rings to the gears).

Clean and Inspect All Parts! If you need replacement parts, please call us at 704-782-4343

DISASSEMBLY FOR DRAG RACE TRANSMISSIONS
1. Remove Top Cover
2. Drain Transmission Oil by removing the drain plug
3. Remove shift rods and shifter assembly
4. Remove front bearing retainer
5. Remove tail housing
6. Remove detents and detent springs for the 1-2 shift rail
7. Remove the 1-2 shift fork lock bolt
8. Remove the 1-2 shift rail
9. Remove the detents and detent springs for the 3-4 shift rail
10. Remove the 3-4 shift fork lock bolt
11. Remove the 3-4- shift rail
12. Remove the snap ring for the front bearing
13. Remove the snap ring for the rear bearing
14. Rotate the transmission and Remove bottom cover
15. Remove the snap ring from the backside of the main drive cluster gear
16. Slide the gear rearward
17. Remove the counter shaft
18. Lift cluster assembly out of the case
19. Rotate the transmission
20. Remove the front bearing
21. Remove the rear bearing
22. Remove the main drive gear from the input shaft
23. Remove the 1-2 and 3-4 forks
24. Separate the input shaft from the output shaft (let the input shaft hang out of the front of the case)
25. Remove the main shaft out of the top of the case
26. Remove the remaining detent pins
27. Remove the reverse lock bolt
28. Remove the reverse rail
29. Remove the reverse fork
30. Remove the reverse idler and slider

CLUSTER SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove Snap Rings
2. Remove Gears

MAIN SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the snap ring from the 3-4 Slider Hub
2. Remove the 3rd gear from the main shaft
3. Remove the snap ring that holds the 2nd gear on the main shaft

Clean and Inspect All Parts! If you need replacement parts, please call us at 704-782-4343


Break In Procedure
Click Here for a .pdf Version of Break In Procedure

1. BREAK IN PROCEDURE: To avoid premature wear of gears and bearings, all new and rebuilt transmissions must be properly run in prior to racing. Drive slowly in the pits loading and unloading the transmission in each gear to lap in the gears and lubricate the bearings thoroughly. After accomplishing the above, drain the synthetic break in oil and replace with new synthetic gear oil as recommended for your type of transmission, Synthetic Multi-Viscosity Gear Oil 75W90. It is recommended that after the first event you drain the gear oil to remove all breakin debris and metallic sediment. Replace with new oil as recommended; thereafter, drain and inspect the oil and gears as often as you would inspect your engine, and whenever it produces a foul smell from heat.

2. GEAR OIL: SYNTHETIC MULTI-VISCOSITY GEAR OIL MUST BE USED OVAL/ ROAD RACE: 75W90 DRAG RACE: 75W90

Do not at any time use straight 90W gear oil.
DO NOT OVERFILL! This will cause excessive heat.

Cases (Top Loader): Fill the transmission approximately 3/4” bellow the side fill hole.

Cases (Top and Bottom Loader): Fill the transmission approximately 3/4” bellow the side fill hole.

The split case 5-speed, WC4-4, WC4-4.2 requires one (1) quart, all other style of transmissions require approximately two (2) quarts.

3. PRE RACE: Treat your transmission the same as your engine. It is recommended that the transmission and the complete drive train have heat in them prior to racing. To do so, lift the rear wheels above the ground by placing a jack under the rear end, allowing the drive train to operate in high gear. Remember; never allow the drive train to operate with the car supported on jack stands and the rear hanging below ride height, as this will accelerate U-joint wear.

4. DETERMINING WHETHER OR NOT YOU NEED A COOLER OR FILTER: Oval road race transmissions only: On a road course, a cooler is a must. For the short-track and super speedways: Depending on the design and/or build of your car, and the airflow to the transmission, you may not need a cooler.

2 Speed, 3 Speed, and Drag Race (4 and 5 Speed) do not need a cooler.

5 Speed Road Race does require a cooler.

5. INSTALLATION / MOUNTING: If a rear cross member mount is used it must be a flexible rubber mount. Do not use a solid transmission mount. If the motor is mounted both front and rear using engine plates, then no rear transmission mount is required; but if you use one, make sure that it is a very soft mount. The transmission mount should not keep the engine from moving front to rear. Add lateral bars to the engine to keep it from moving.

6. BELLHOUSING ALIGNMENT: Bell housing alignment and pilot bearing hole depth must be confirmed before installation; failure to do so will result in premature wear of bearings, gears and clutch.

FOR CLUTCHLESS DRAG RACE TRANSMISSIONS ONLY
IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED ONE OF OUR DRAG RACE CLUTCHLESS TRANSMISSIONS, WE HAVE FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS AS FOLLOWS:

Although our drag race clutch less 4 speed offers the maximum in 4 speed performance, there are many things you must first understand in achieving the most from this gear box:

With the many clutch pressure plate and clutch disc combinations available today, it is impossible for us to recommend one particular type or make over another, just as it is impossible for us to dictate methods of dialing in a clutch combination to achieve the most in your particular installation and use.

YOU MUST ABORT PASSES WHEN YOUR CLUTCH DOES NOT HAVE ENOUGH SLIPPAGE.

For the gearbox to survive, CLUTCH SLIPPAGE IS A MUST. THE CLUTCH MUST SLIP DURING GEAR CHANGES.

In addition, it is a very fine line between too much slippage and not enough. While many clutch manufacturers recommend starting at the highest clutch spring pressures and backing off until minimal holding pressure is obtained, we recommend starting at lower spring pressures and dialing in more spring pressure until minimal holding pressure is obtained. This is necessary to prevent excessive shock to the gear systems within the transmission.

Dialing in the clutch is a delicate, time-consuming process that requires considerable thought. If necessary, you should start with only first and second gear burnouts prior to any full-power complete passes.

THERE IS NO WARRANTY STATED OR IMPLIED DUE TO THE UNUSUAL STRESSES PLACED ON RACING PARTS AND BECAUSE WE HAVE NO CONTROL OVER HOW THEY ARE USED OR INSTALLED.

 

 

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